Samsung washer error codes are important for keeping the washing in proper working order and giving customers an opportunity to begin if there were any other problems. Error codes (sometimes known as lights flashing) are eventually handled with a couple of basic procedures. Here is another rundown among the most frequent error messages (Samsung 4c error) and what to do next. The Samsung firm has a wide range of washing machine products. Despite the fact that respective default values are usually standardized, the error signals vary greatly. In current washing machines with displays, it would be as simple as displaying an alphanumeric character problem signal.
Even yet, previous versions’ visual designs contained sequences of blazing and flickering LEDs (indicators). We’ll attempt to cover the majority of things on this page, as well as those found in older versions. The fault codes used by Samsung washers are generally the same. So, first and foremost, this page presents the most thorough explanation of the problem code now users account for the display models. Next, for every one of the display styles and product types, you’ll discover several connections to the very first column in the error tables.
In older Samsung washing machines, error codes beginning with the letter E were used.
Please keep in mind that a single failure numerical system can have many values for the very same problem. The HE, HE1, and HE2 indicators, for example, constitute a continuous set that describes a tub water heating issue. Even yet, the precise source of errors may vary. These are done to reduce the number of error codes that need to be described. Furthermore, the specifics of the faults are still meaningless to the typical consumer. You’re probably going to start calling a mechanic who has had some additional enterprise technology.
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- 1 List of Samsung washer error codes
- 1.1 5E (SE), 5C.E2-
- 1.2 H1, H2, HE, HE1, HE2, HC, HC1, HC2, E5, E6-
- 1.3 DE, DE1, DE2, DC, DC1, DC2, DOOR, ED-
- 1.4 4E (ЧЕ), 4C, E1-
- 1.5 SUd, 5d (Sd)-
- 1.6 UE, UB, E4-
- 1.7 LE, LE1, LC, LC1, E9-
- 1.8 3E, 3E1, 3E2, 3E3, 3E4, 3C, 3C1, 3C2, 3C3, 3C4, EA-
- 1.9 bE (6E), bE1, bE2, bE3, bC, bC2, b2, Eb-
- 1.10 tE, tE1, tE2, tE3, tC, tC1, tC2, tC3, tC4, Ec-
- 1.11 1E (IE), 1C (IC), E7-
- 1.12 OE (0E)OF (0F)OC (0C)E3-
- 1.13 Uc, 9C, 9E1, 9E2-
- 1.14 2H, 3H, 4P-
- 1.15 AE, AC, ACb (AC6), 13E-
- 1.16 FE, FC-
- 1.17 EE-
- 1.18 ddC-
- 1.19 dC3-
- 1.20 8E, 8E1, 8C, 8C1-
- 1.21 PoF, PF-
- 1.22 Ao., A9, B0, C0,D0, E0-
- 1.23 Hot-
- 1.24 CE, AC, ACB (AC6) 4C2-
- 1.25 6C, SdC (5dC)-
- 2 Samsung 4c error in a washing machine
- 3 Conclusion
List of Samsung washer error codes
There are no of Samsung washer error codes listed below:
5E (SE), 5C.E2-
The device isn’t draining dirty wastewater properly: the flow in the tub hasn’t gone directly to a particular degree in the required timeframe.The following are the justifications:
That anything is preventing the water from draining from the washer: a blockage in the overflow tube or a blockage in the drainage motor’s hydraulic circuit. One can take care of each of these issues on their own. The connections have been removed or the cabling has been destroyed. The connectors of the networks comprising the regulator and the pumps or the pressure regulator are what we’re talking about. A problem usually could arise in the pumping motor’s power system.
The drainage pumps or blade have stopped working. One should contact a professional to have the coils or the whole engine checked and replaced. The water table control is not working properly. It necessitates an evaluation and treatment. The control isn’t working properly. If the chip is defective, it must be diagnosed and replaced by a specialist. That is an unusual case, but for it to occur: the washing machine was left in a chilly location, and also the tub’s liquid iced.
H1, H2, HE, HE1, HE2, HC, HC1, HC2, E5, E6-
The water in the tank is either warmed poorly or not really, or it is overdone. There are numerous causes for this, including the following:
The voltage spikes are insufficient. In addition, if indeed the power is just too weak, one should contact an engineer. To begin, double-check that the cabling between both the temperature probe or heat source and the control system is in good working order. Verify that all of the connections and adapters are safely linked. The absence of a message from the temperature probe could suggest that it is malfunctioning. The defective detector must be replaced. The warming entity’s circuit became “stuck.” It is also in need of some replacement. Due to the obvious heavy coating of scales that have developed on the heat source, for instance, this has burned completely. This heating element can’t be fixed.
The warming entity’s power system is open. Make that the cabling and connections are in good working order. If the washing is situated in some kind of a chilly location, the warming time could be too limited for the temperature of the water to rise. This is a rare sight, however, it does occur. The temperature probe, the switch, and the control system are all malfunctioning.
DE, DE1, DE2, DC, DC1, DC2, DOOR, ED-
Its controller receives no indication that the shutter is shut or that it does not reopen. As a consequence, the devices are in charge of the current cycle commencement. The foregoing are some of the probable factors: And perhaps the most apparent step is to shut the door firmly. Then double-check that nothing is blocking us from shutting the door. If the issue persists, something else has gone wrong. The link between both the lock panel’s controller transistor and the control system is damaged.
One should use a voltmeter to verify the circuits and the connections. There’s something wrong with the locking system, such as the locks or the joints have become slack. In theory, users should be able to fix the key on their own. Nonetheless, because the lock mechanism is a complicated item that includes gadgets, we should call the repair center. The door glance detector isn’t working properly. It must be replaced.The shutter assembly’s actuator is broken. It must be replaced.
4E (ЧЕ), 4C, E1-
Issues with consumption of water: the tub does not refill in the appropriate amount of time. The aforementioned are some of the probable factors: The washing isn’t getting any freshwater. Why? The water source is shut off, the water pressure is reduced, the cable is broken or blocked, and the needle valve is gummed up, among other things. Each of these issues is simple to resolve on our own. The devices are managing the beginning of the washing process because we neglected to shut the door securely. This intake valve is malfunctioning. You’ll have to get it replaced. This water level indicator isn’t working properly. It necessitates an evaluation and repair. The connections of the networks comprising the regulator and the intake manifold or the water level valve are exposed. The controller isn’t working properly. If you need a proper diagnosis and repair, in case the board is defective.
SUd, 5d (Sd)-
As during the washing process, there are a lot of suds.The exact reasons behind the unusual frothing: If you’re using improper laundry detergent, such as the one that isn’t designed for automated washers, consider switching detergents.
If you’ve used more cleanser than you need for one soaking process, try lowering the amount the very next time users attempt the loop.
This water drainage is in bad shape.
The pressure valve is either damaged or has an open-circuit voltage. You should use a voltmeter to examine the wiring and change the valve.
When a foam sensor module is provided, the very same applies.
The control isn’t working properly. Place a call to a mechanic.
UE, UB, E4-
The placement of the drums is incorrect, and there is no equilibrium. The following are some of the probable factors:
It’s possible that the pressure is enormous or, on the other hand, inadequate.
It is indeed conceivable that users stacked the clothing in the tub incorrectly, resulting in an unbalanced load. The machine isn’t firmly positioned lengthwise. Examine it with a level meter. The washer’s power engine’s drive chain has been broken. It must be replaced.
Our washer’s cabling is defective. One must use an analyzer to inspect the circuitry, repair any broken areas, and inspect and solder the connections. The detector that detects the location of the drum is broken. The detector must be diagnosed and replaced. Another tachogenerator or Hall detector is just the same way. The electric engine has a problem: either as the brush has worn out or the bearings have seized. Users must contact a professional.The control scheme isn’t working properly. Make a call to the mechanic to have a look at it.
LE, LE1, LC, LC1, E9-
Your machine is either spilling water or has a self-draining feature. The washer’s essential components could be the source of the issue: Check the load and drainage tubes, the cover and its seal, the soapbox, the internal piping, and the tub for any signs of water leakage.
The drain motor has sprung a leakage. You’ll have had to change it because it’s certainly above restoration. There is a lot of froth. Another of the detectors has a malfunction or a breakdown in the control system: the water table control or the leakage management system (“Aqua-Stop”). The sewage line is incorrectly attached to the drain hose. The gadgets are malfunctioning.
3E, 3E1, 3E2, 3E3, 3E4, 3C, 3C1, 3C2, 3C3, 3C4, EA-
An electronic control system is not receiving an indication from the power motor’s tachometer. Because the burden is too great, the motor is pushing extra hard.
The tacho sensor module is either exposed or the connections have deteriorated.
The detector has sprung out of its sitting because the tacho washer that holds the coils in place has drifted away. The tachogenerator isn’t working properly. It must be changed.
It’s also possible that the engine is broken. It requires evaluation, correction, or exchange. On another side of the Tachometer circuitry, there seem to be issued: The controller is malfunctioning.
bE (6E), bE1, bE2, bE3, bC, bC2, b2, Eb-
The washer will not run, or there are difficulties with the power motor’s transistor for ac power. In fact, the collection of error codes is odd: the washing might not always commence for a variety of causes. Owing to some kind of triac defect, the engine would have been unable to revolve the drums (then users need to examine the circuit, the proper detector, and the controller). Additional possibilities include a defective tacho detector (also see the 3E error report) or inner machinery issues.
tE, tE1, tE2, tE3, tC, tC1, tC2, tC3, tC4, Ec-
This temperature probe is not sending any information to the control (thermostat). The aforementioned are some of the probable factors: To begin, double-check that the cabling here between the temperature probe or heat source and the control system is in good working order. Verify that all of the connections and adapters are actually fastened.
The absence of a message from the detector could imply that it is malfunctioning. The defective sensor must be replaced. The warming object’s circuit became “stuck.” It is also in need of replacing. The locking panel’s actuator is broken. Expert diagnosis and controller exchange is required.
1E (IE), 1C (IC), E7-
The water level indicator is not sending any information to the control. So what were the sources of the problem and what should you do if a malfunctioning sensor alert appears? To begin, double-check that the connection between both the component and the control system is operational and that all of the connections are secure and not corroded. After that, look at the real detector. It must be replaced if it is compromised. Inspect the controllers to finish the diagnosis. One should seek professional help for its evaluation and maintenance.
OE (0E)OF (0F)OC (0C)E3-
The tub is overflowing. The main causes are clogged drains, sensor malfunction, and the use of incorrect soap. If you’re using a product that’s not meant for this operation, consider switching detergents. If you’ve used more detergent than you need for this washing process, try lowering the amount the very next time you attempt the loop.
The water drainage seems to be in bad shape. Can see the 5E error’s explanation.
The pressure valve is either damaged or has an open circuit. You should use a meter to examine the circuitry and repair the button. The input filling gate is just the same way.
This controller isn’t working properly. Make a call to a mechanic.
Uc, 9C, 9E1, 9E2-
The mains terminal voltage does not fulfill the washer model’s body standards. Make an appointment with an engineer to inspect and fix the cabling. If that doesn’t work, the gadget is broken, and you’ll have to call the repair shop again.
2H, 3H, 4P-
The code represents the amount of time till the cleaning operation is finished (this is not an error message!)Throughout a full phase, users of electrical appliances with modest two panels can notice such a symbol. A three-digit figure of pending time cannot be displayed on certain screens. The letter “H” represents “Hour,” whereas the number represents the number of hours left. “2” equals 100-180 mins, “3” equals 180-240 mins, and “4” equals over 240 mins; the key will expire after 99 mins.
AE, AC, ACb (AC6), 13E-
A data exchange situation happened between both the central controller and the data displaying board. There is a gap in the circuit between both two boards. It necessitates multimeter testing, cabling repairs, and connection and socket strengthening.
It’s possible that the information displaying panel is broken. A diagnostic, correction, or substitution is required.
The control panel isn’t working properly. Then get in touch with the repair center.
The air conditioner is broken. Hereunder are some of the potential explanations:
The fan is broken. It must be repaired or replaced. The fan detectors and controls are connected to an open switch. It necessitates the replacement of cabling and the strengthening of contacts. The fan detectors aren’t working properly. A diagnostic, correction, or substitution is required.
The control panel isn’t working properly. Then get in touch with the repair center.
Its heating temp is very hot. Inspect the drying temperature gauge and its circuitry immediately. Restore the damaged detector and fix the cabling.
It’s warmer and its circuit consists of the same boat.
Finally, inspect the controller, although this is a job for a professional.
Even though the pause key was not hit, the Add Door has been opened. (It’s the opening for putting any clothes into the washing machine as during operation.) Shut the door and push the Start or Pause key to begin cleaning.
The Add Door isn’t sending a message to the electrical controller, thus it’s either isn’t secured or won’t show up.
8E, 8E1, 8C, 8C1-
The motion detector VRT+ isn’t operating. The detector, which is an analogue of the Hall effect sensor, is included on versions built from 2013 onwards.
The sensor’s and operator’s circuits are both accessible. It necessitates the replacement of cabling and the strengthening of contacts. The detector isn’t working properly. A diagnostic, correction, or exchange is required. The control board isn’t working properly. Then get in touch with the repair shop.
Even during the washing process, the electricity was turned off. Simply tap the Start or Pause key to restart the process.
Ao., A9, B0, C0,D0, E0-
It wasn’t a mistake; the system simply wanted to let you know that the washing is in testing mode. Read the washer’s directions for how to quit the regular test.
During the drying phase, the heat is considerable (over 70 ℃). This is not a mistake, but rather a simple informative display in case something goes wrong. It will go once the temperature drops.
CE, AC, ACB (AC6) 4C2-
The liquid is reaching the tank at an excessively high temperature. The washing starts draining right away and shows the fault signal.
The loading line is linked to the warm water source, which is incorrect.
The thermostat is broken or has an exposed control connection.
The heating coils are broken: either it’s broken or there’s been a short circuit.
The controller isn’t working.
6C, SdC (5dC)-
The automatic feeder doesn’t seem to be operating. Certain devices with Wi-Fi connectivity are eligible.
A problem exists with the dispenser activator gate or its detector. Troubleshooting, valve adjustment, and sensor change are all required.
The controller is attached to an open connection. The cabling must be repaired, the connections must be tightened, and the connections must be cleaned.
The technological breakdown is often a possibility.
Samsung 4c error in a washing machine
Samsung top-loading washing machines exhibit a range of warning or defect codes to notify people of potential problems with the device. One such failure number that users may have noticed on the display is 4C or 4E. So, let us just examine how to cope with this problem code and quickly resolve it. The error code 4C or 4E means that the washer has discovered a problem with the water system.
This might indicate that the Samsung washing unit is unable to produce a source of fresh water because the water delivery line is obstructed or tangled. But when that occurs, people won’t be able to recognize or even see the liquid gushing out of the washer’s front pane. The 4C error messages might appear at any time during the wash cycle, including while cleaning. The filthy water is entirely emptied out at the conclusion, and there is no pure current flowing.
4С error code – Causes
A 4C error can occur for a variety of reasons:
- The infrastructure does not have any cold water.
- There could be debris or a foreign material lodged within the water intake valves.
- There might be an issue with the cold and hot supply hookups. This could occur when you link to the water distribution network.
- Water pressure is reduced or non-existent in the water distribution network.
- The line is really not attached to the soap tank.
Samsung washing machine 4C error – Troubleshooting
The first step is to switch on the chilled water faucet and check for enough water flow. The water pressure should be within 0.5 and 8 bar, according to Samsung. Users should turn off the device at the power supply, pull the washing machine upright to provide accessibility to the water cannons and inspect the hose pipe attached to the washing for any curves or twists. If the issue persists, search for the following 2 items:
Check for any leaks first from the water supply faucet, as this is a prevalent trigger of the 4C warning.
Make certain that the water pressure builds up. If indeed the water pressure isn’t a problem, the warning could be caused by a clogged hose meshes screen. It’s simple to wash or repair. To avoid any construct, wash the water hose net filters at least two times a year.
Restart the washing machine and see whether it works. If the problem continues, the issue is most probably well with the washing machine’s structural components. There could be a failure of the appliance’s intake manifolds, which an expert can detect.
I hope this article would have helped you to fix and recognize the different variety of Samsung washer error codes. In case you are not able to fix your machine with these initial steps then just immediately call the Samsung support center or any export mechanic to fix the error.